As Americans on Okinawa we do have some familiar food joints. We have a Burger King and Subway on Camp Courtney as well as a Chili's and Macaroni Grill if we drive to other bases, but if you want any variety at all you must travel off base. Matt and I must be more adventurous than I thought because we love trying new local places and deciphering a translated menu to see what we end up with. The food here is very tasty with a surprising number of places serving familiar dishes such as pizza or burgers with fries. However, the experience is very different from what I was used to in the states!
First of all, if the seating is western style you can leave your shoes on. Western style will have tables and chairs lifted off the ground. Traditional style will have mats on the ground with very low tables. You are expected to remove your shoes before you enter the restaurant. It will be an obvious choice if there is a large shelf of shoes right outside the restaurant. My example for this guide will be Exit Cafe which has western seating.
Once you are seated you will be handed a menu. Many places have English translations under the Japanese labels, but if not you will be given a menu with large pictures that you can point to when the waiter takes your order. Exit Cafe only has five tables in the whole restaurant, so they can tell when you are ready to order. Larger restaurants have a buzzer system. Our sponsors told us the first time they went out to eat they waited for forty-five minutes with no waiter to take their order. Finally a local couple at the next table over began pointing to the buzzer on their own table to show them what to do! This does not stem from the wait staff not paying attention, but rather the cultural idea that patrons in a restaurant do not like to be disturbed. Therefore, they will not take your order until you signal that you are ready.
When you are seated you are also given a small glass of water and a towelette. You are expected to wipe your hands before the meal. I also keep my towelette close by during the meal since the restaurant napkins here are itty bitty. The water glasses are also tiny. You must conserve your liquids when dining out in Okinawa! Always order a drink off the menu. Once your drink is gone and your water glass is empty you are out of luck. There are no free refills of sodas here, and while you could receive more water in theory waiters do not check on you during the meal so there is no opportunity to ask for more. Again, they assume you do not want to be disturbed so they do not come to your table and ask if you need anything. Matt and I ended up thirsty before we learned to drink very slowly with our meal.
When eating out you will be asked if you want the "set." This is like a "combo" but instead of fries you are brought soup and salad before the entree. The set at Exit Cafe includes the traditional soup and salad as well as ice cream for dessert and a drink. Just a warning to my family: they do not (I repeat do not) serve Diet Coke at most restaurants. Your choices are Coke, Ginger Ale, Melon Soda (which is bright green) and unsweetened tea. The good news about the tea is you are also given liquid gum sugar so that you can sweeten it to taste.
When you are finished with your meal they will not bring a check. Instead you walk up the the cashier and tell them what you ordered. The will find your ticket and add up the total cost. Always have yen ready because cards are not accepted. You do not leave a tip on the table. If you enjoyed your meal you complement the staff as you leave. They will thank you and bow, and you have the option to do the same. Be warned: the pattern of bowing and thanking will continue until you are out the door!
Some final notes about what NOT to do. Do NOT stick your chopsticks upright in your food. Lay them on the table when you are done. Do NOT pass food from one set of chopsticks to another. Both of these are used in their funeral ceremonies and would basically be reminding the people around you off all of their deceased loved ones. Do not worry if you can't eat with chopsticks well. Cafes give you an option of silverware or chopsticks, and if you have to eat with chopsticks slurping your food is not considered rude so as long as you can get part of the noodles in your mouth you are ok.
We have had a few miscommunications over our orders, but overall pantomimes work out great and we have tried some delicious local cuisine. Once you know what to expect you can relax and enjoy the food and view.
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| The view on a sunny day! |
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